Temp Tation Computer

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Tuesday, 28 December 2010

Of (Potential) Death, Taxes and Human Bondage. Er, bonding.

Posted on 15:14 by Unknown

 

When the telephone rings, it’s just before seven o’clock and I feel like I only just fell asleep.  The too-bright voice on the other end says he’ll be there to pick me up in half an hour.  For god’s sake, I complain, I’m…Still in bed?  he asks.  No problem, I’ll give you five minutes more.

I creep downstairs to unlock the front door and turn on the porch light.  The sky is dark – not a glimmer of natural light – and I marvel at the newfound habits of the Youngest Son, who has become such an early riser that he can sound cheerful before dawn.  I shower and dress quietly, but the sound of the hair dryer is harder to muffle.  MFB slumbers on, and only mutters indistinctly as I whisper goodbye.  

He’s there, bang on time, waiting outside in a borrowed car he wishes was his.  We accelerate away from the house, down the darkened streets empty of traffic toward the city centre and the bowels of an underground garage.  Walking along the deserted sidewalks – his wounded knee slowing our usual pace – I look up to the brightening sky and exclaim for having left my camera behind.  The cell phone will have to do.  Image0208 

The Marriot Hotel serves a breakfast buffet every morning from seven ‘til nine-thirty, and he’s been wanting to go for weeks.  There are only a few occupied tables, but enough food to feed a full sitting.  Conspicuous waste, but we’ll do our best to reduce what’s thrown out.  Three eggs Benedict for him, and one less for me.  Pancakes.  Croissants.  Peeled orange slices with the pith removed.  Whose job is that?  Strong coffee.  Fresh orange juice.  Conversation - about cars, about the havoc  illicit drugs wreak on a brain, about plans for the future.  Then dogs, brothers, travel and the stupid things people do with laser pointers.  It’s definitely worth getting up this early. 

Replete, we head for the big stores to look for his new pants, a belated Christmas present.  But there’s nothing his size, or rather nothing that both fits him and satisfies his need for minimal care.  Won’t buy anything that has to be dry-cleaned.  Back to the car, but at the garage exit the barrier won’t go up.  Next time I won’t fold the ticket, he says, and tries again.  Nothing doing.  Aw, let’s just steal parking, he says.  We’ll just wait for another car to leave and follow close behind.  Not a chance, I say, and go off in search of help.   

Can’t find anyone on this unnaturally quiet weekday morning, four days after Christmas.  Then a horn blares behind me, and he’s gone and done it anyway.  Ridden on somebody else’s tail and scooted under the raised gate after they paid to exit.  Principles are flexible, I find.  Nobody’s there to help me be honest, so if the only way to get out is to steal, I guess I’m OK with that. 

Another mall, another store.  Two pair of pants that are both long enough and washable enough to suit.  He feels bad about not buying the shoes that are a tad too small: he feels sorry for the salesman.  My eyes roll slightly.  You should know better – you’re a salesman yourself, I tell him.  Yeah, well, that’s why I feel sorry for him. 

Another mall, another score.  On-sale shoes in size 14.  Half-price jeans in a 36-inch leg – for me, too.    He throws his arm around my shoulder and gives me a big, lingering squeeze. Two things I wished for my kids to be were readers and huggers.   Not all of them are both of those things, but they’re all affectionate.  Lucky me.  He drops me off at home and in return I drop a bag full of clean clothes through the sunroof.  Laundry in exchange for a morning’s worth of hanging out sounds like a pretty good deal to me.  

Unannounced, a big backhoe arrives a few minutes later and stops in front of my house.  As MFB and I watch from our front-row seats, it is unloaded and driven across the sidewalk and up the front lawn of the house directly opposite.  After a few minutes of suspense, the bucket is raised and with a delicate tap, demolishes the west wall of the house. 

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The driver who delivered the thing stands on the sidewalk watching, and when I jokingly ask if the gas line was turned off first, says: we never check.  I laugh.  You’re kidding.  Nope, we never do, he says.    Thirty seconds later I get a big whiff of natural gas.  Smell that? I ask.  A mild look of consternation crosses his face and he starts off in the direction of the backhoe.  I beat a retreat into my house to call 911, wondering if this is an overreaction but preferring that to being blown to smithereens.

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In less than three minutes a big red fire truck pulls up at the end of the street.  (Living in a city has its advantages.) When I identify myself to the responders they invite me into the truck and you don’t have to be a kid to get a thrill out of that.  What did you smell?  For how long? How strong was it ?  No, don’t apologize for calling us – we’d rather be safe than sorry – and no, we don’t think your fertile imagination had anything to do with it  

I want a picture of the inside of the truck but don’t want to look like I’m one of those fire-setters who get their kicks from crying wolf.  A few minutes later the advance men radio back to the truck that they have no indication of errant gas, that all demolition permits are in order, and that they believe it’s safe to leave the area.  The explanation I had already thought of is offered by one of them : residual gas escaping a pipe ruptured by the backhoe almost certainly accounted for the smell.  They’re satisfied that  the supply had already been turned off before the first strike. 

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Sheepishly, I ask for a photo.  Because my admiration for people who put themselves at risk for others is boundless, and because I want to put you up on my blog.  Tell your city counsellor instead, they laugh, but happily line up for me.  They want to know what kind of a blog it is and can they look at it? What do I write about?  Oh, everything, I say.  Travel.  Adventure.  Human beings.  They seem impressed.  For heaven’s sake, they’re the ones who put themselves in the line of…fire.  Somebody fishes out a pen and tells me to write the blog name on his partner’s forehead. 

 

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On the way back to No. 15 Fire Station, the guy riding shotgun gives me The Royal Wave. For you, Mr. Fireman, and all your buddies everywhere, I’ll pay my taxes without a peep.  And just let me know where I can get your New Year’s calendar, would you? 

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Posted in children, community, relationships | No comments

Thursday, 23 December 2010

The Twelve Teaspoons of Christmas

Posted on 22:10 by Unknown

Dear Mom, 

Just finished baking a whole lot of your gingersnap cookies this afternoon, only about the fourth time in ten years that I’ve managed to do any kind of Christmas baking.  In the lean years – and by that I mean the years when I haven’t been able to get my act together enough to do more than presents, turkey and tree – I missed the gingersnaps the most.  And it felt a bit like I was letting everybody down, although Eldest Son certainly didn’t mind.  He might have loved them as much as his siblings had I not eaten my way through an entire bowl of uncooked dough back when I was breast-feeding him.  I kept getting interrupted just when I was about to roll and bake them, and the bowl sat in the fridge for a couple of days.  Gradually emptying, spoonful by raw spoonful.  Poor kid – no wonder he has an aversion to ginger.   

But the rest of us love your recipe, which was your mother’s before that.  Ginger chews they are really,  so long as they’re not left in the oven long enough to crisp. Now the oversized cookie jar is full to the brim, and what wouldn’t fit in there has gone into a Christmas box for the neighbours.  I pray that I’ll be able to leave them alone, but the jar is see-through glass and I might have to put it in the basement until Christmas Day, just to get it out of my peripheral vision. 

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Mom, you’d probably look askance at the tree we’ve got this year.  It’s a nice enough little thing, reasonably full and not dropping any needles yet, but the decorations went up in record time and frankly, it shows.  Your trees were always beautiful, so artfully arranged, with reflective orbs suspended just so over the lights for maximum effect.  I remember the year that Dad got fed up with your tree-trimming instructions (interference, he called it) and, in a fit of uncharacteristic exasperation, took handfuls of tinsel and just threw them at the tree.  I was the only person who thought that was funny.  

Our tree is a happy medium between perfectionism and random tinsel-tossing although maybe just once, some year when I don’t also have to produce dinner or wrap presents. I’ll decorate a tree all in blue and silver, or red and gold.  My kids would be disappointed by such loveliness, though.  Many of our best decorations were hand-made by the craftiest woman in the family and even if they don’t shine, they mean a lot to us.  

But back to those cookies, Mom.  The recipe says that 12 teaspoons of ginger, 8 cups of flour and 1/2 cup each of molasses and golden syrup will make, along with the other essential ingredients, 20 dozen cookies.  I only got about 14 out of it, and I didn’t roll them in sugar either.  It’s a new world, Mom.  People watch their weight now, although the stats say that we’re more overweight than ever.  As it is, I’m damn lucky I got Dad’s metabolism, otherwise I’d weigh about three thousand pounds.     

Unlike a penchant for sewing, the gift for turning out delicious cakes and cookies didn’t skip a generation.  While you were precision itself in the making of blazers and other complex garments, I was of the ‘Make-It-Tonight’ school of tailoring and your granddaughter would be hard pressed to even hem a pair of jeans.  She is, however, a baker extraordinaire. Dessert on Christmas Eve will her offering, and if you were here to sup with us, you’d be asking for seconds.  Not to be confused with the Eating Contest that seems to have become a tradition among the younger set at Christmas, the appeal of which is utterly lost on me.  All I can think of is that Japanese kid who makes a living, revoltingly, out of stuffing himself. 

We’ll be about ten around the table tomorrow night, a nearly two-fold increase from the years when you were still with us.  Christmas was always too quiet, despite the eight cousins and their progeny who lived within shouting distance.   The great divide between you and their mother had a spill-over effect on the rest of us, although the real reason might be the merciless teasing visited on my eight-year-old self by the eldest one.  And I always suspected that they liked their other cousins - the ones that weren’t related to me - better.   If Dad’s brother hadn’t gone and married your lovely younger sister, I would have had some cousins all to myself too. 

The recipe box is a treasure trove of memories, and I have fun looking through it.  There’s your ‘Never Fail Pastry’, written in a younger hand, the 60s ‘Festive Mulled Wine’, and the perennial favourite: ‘Rhoda’s Cheese Balls’.  Those got made last night and slung in the freezer right away.  The only  way I can control my appetite for salty, savoury things like that is to put them out of sight and hope they stay out of mind. 

You know, Mom, I’m basically an atheist.  All that stuff about life-ever-after is just nonsense, if you ask me.  When you’re done, you’re done, and whoever is left behind better just get on with it.  But still, I find myself talking to you in my head, and wondering if I’m getting through to you.  That’s what happened this afternoon, while I was rolling those fourteen dozen cookies.  Telling you that, despite the down-market Christmas tree, you’d be pretty pleased to know that I still make your ginger cookies and that I love the fact that the recipe is in your handwriting.  I never understood why you thought your writing was messy and childish.  It’s perfectly legible and absolutely you.  It’s also the last tangible connection I have with you and helped me make-believe that you really were in my kitchen this afternoon, with the sun pouring through the window and carols playing on the radio.   

Merry Christmas, Mom.  Miss you.  Love you. 

Your daughter

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Wednesday, 22 December 2010

24 Ways to Christmas – A Quiz Just For You

Posted on 10:35 by Unknown

 

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Oh, it’s been a while.  According to (some) blogger etiquette, I’m not supposed to remind you of that,  but I wanted to say that I’ve missed being here.  Having been well-occupied with children and domestic Canadian life, writing has dropped to the bottom of the priority list.  This is unfortunate but due to be addressed as soon as December 25th is just a memory.  In the meanwhile, here’s a little something to stir up your brain cells.   

If I were diabolical,  I would post this on Christmas Night, when everybody’s brain is in a fog from too much food and drink.    However, since I will be in the same state and wouldn’t remember to do that, they’re going up now. 

Each phrase is a clue to a well-known Christmas carol.  Good luck!  (Answers will be posted….later.  When depends on how desperate you get!) 

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1. Move hitherward the entire assembly of all who are loyal in their belief.

2. Listen, the celestial messengers produce harmonious sounds.

3. Nocturnal time-span of unbroken quietness

4. An emotion excited by the acquisition or expectation of good, given to the celestial sphere

5. The Christmas preceding all others

6. Small municipality in Judea, south of Jerusalem.

7. Diminutive masculine master of skin covered percussionistic cylinders.

8. Omnipotent, Supreme Being who elicits respite to ecstatic distinguished males.

9. The first person normative plural of a triumvirate of Far Easter n heads of state.

10. Obese personification fabricated of compressed mounds of crystallized vapour.

11. Geographic state of fantasy during the season of mother nature’s dormancy

12. 12 Tintinnabulation of vacillating pendulums in inverted, metallic, resonant cups

13. In a distant location, the existence of an improvised unit of a newborn’s slumber furniture.

14. Proceed forth declaring upon a specific geological formation

15. Quadruped with a crimson probiscus

16. Adorn the vestibule

17. Cherubim audited from aloft

18. Hallowed Post-Meridian

19. Fantasia of a colourless December 25

20. A dozen 24 hour Yule periods

21. Befell during a transparent witching hour

22. Desire a pair of incisors on the day of Natal celebration

23. I spied my maternal parent osculating Father Christmas

24. Joyful Yuletide desired for the second person singular, by us!

 

To all my blogger friends, I wish a joyful Christmas and all best wishes for the New Year.

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Tuesday, 16 November 2010

Keep Seat Belts Fastened Whilst Seated

Posted on 22:36 by Unknown

We are on the final approach to Brussels airport, and my seat belt has been securely fastened the whole way. If my only clue to the nationality of this airline was the ‘st’, I’d say it was British. And it is. If ever you want to zoom around Europe for next-to-nothing, Easyjet is the way to go. (Shameless promotion of an airline in which I do not have shares.)

From the air, Belgium is a harvest vegetable stew of oranges, reds and yellows on a green backdrop.  With few exceptions, vivid fall colours are missing from the autumn landscape in the south-east of France, which stays pretty much green all year round.  I miss the definition of the seasons by colour and temperature, although this is only a mild complaint! - anyone lucky enough to live in Provence has no business moaning about anything.    From a few thousand feet up, the villages look like they belong to that toy train set my older brothers never let me play with; their matchbox houses built of brick, with steep-pitched roofs. Why is that? There’s no snow to slide off them in winter, so perhaps it’s because of the extra room gained under the eaves. It all reminds me a bit of England, but prettier and less dense.

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We are picked up at the airport by a welcoming party of two of my Favourite Belgian's children, some grandsons, and a son-in-law who whisk us away to the coastal town of Oostduinkerke to spend the weekend.  All of Brussels is on the highway heading west, it seems.  High-speed bumper-to-bumper traffic is not something I'll ever get used to, although it's the norm in the densely-populated countries of Europe, whose citizenry heads en masse for the sea, the mountains or the countryside on their days off.  

 IMG_5282Belgium is the Canada of Europe, according to me. To the south is a much bigger, more powerful neighbour with a voice that carries, if not around the world, then at least around Europe. Like Canada, it is a country of two cultures and languages - French and Flemish - that struggle for supremacy against a backdrop of sometimes-bitter history. The level of concession is astonishingly low – if you live in a Flemish-speaking commune but are a Francophone, you’re sunk. All administrative business is conducted in Flemish and you have no right to put so much as a For Sale sign on your lawn in anything other than the official language. Shopkeepers, even those who speak French, are known to refuse to serve French-speakers. The Flamands, chafing from old injustices and an inferiority complex, are known for their refusal to accommodate the Walloons - French-speaking southerners - who are viewed through a historical lens as aristocrats unwilling to acknowledge the linguistic and economic clout of their northern neighbours. 

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Brussels is caught in the middle.  As the capital of Belgium and the capital of Flanders, it is a distinct region in its own right and recognizes both French and Flemish as official languages, although only a small minority speak Flemish. French-speakers account for well over half of the population, with the rest taken up by the multitudinous languages of Brussels’ international community, the result of both the European Union and NATO being headquartered here. The city is wonderfully cosmopolitan as well as being very attractive, and is at the top of my favourite-cities list.

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Despite their deep political divisions, Belgians are viewed as friendly, welcoming people with a reputation for unpretentiousness.  Like my Quebecois compatriots, they move to the familiar tu more readily than the French.  They have a reputation as peace-brokers and negotiators, take no major stands on the international scene, do no sabre-rattling and generally go about their business with a minimum of fuss.  Ignoring, for the moment, that they have been unable for months to achieve the necessary compromise to install a functional government acceptable to both sides, Belgium is nevertheless a place that exudes calm, prosperity and efficiency.

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 It's a fascinating place from an architectural point of view.  An architect or urban planner would able to explain to me how the Belgians manage to create a sense of uniformity while remaining highly individualistic in their building and house construction, but what comes across to this visitor is a very pleasing originality in which the unexpected is entirely expected.

Thatched roof house PICT0994  Stone, bricStone, brick and wood are common materials, but what the Belgians do with them is limited only by their considerable imagination.  To be expected, of course, of the birthplace of the surrealist René Magritte.

magritte On this mild November long weekend, the tidy town is filled with couples, dogs and children strolling the esplanade and the vast, hard-packed beaches.

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Even at thisEven at this time of year, the outdoor seating areas of the restaurants lining the esplanade are full, their patrons swathed in woollen scarves. IMG_5273 The waffle

Most places offer the Belgian specialties of mussels and fries, or waffles loaded with whipped cream and chocolate.  My preference is for le gaufre Bruxellois, a lighter-than-air waffle made with yeast. Its Liège counterpart is heavier, sweeter and irregularly-shaped – both are scrumptious and the variety of toppings nearly limitless. Apart from waffles (and chocolate!), the Belgians are known for their hundreds of varieties of beer and a peculiar habit of eating fries with mayonnaise.

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Last year when we were here in September, I was lucky enough to catch an unusual sight. There are fewer than a dozen fishermen left along the North Sea who practice the 500-year-old tradition of shrimp fishing on horseback.  A net attached to two planks is pulled through the surf behind the horse, catching shrimp and other fish.

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On my

On my bucket list is a horseback ride along a beach like this one, but the older I get the less likely it is to happen.  Remember that scene in The Black Stallion, when the boy finally gains the trust of the horse and clambers aboard to canter through the surf? It chokes me up just thinking about it.  

This weekend holiday at the coast is a lapsed family tradition, renewed in recent years. My FB – the patriarch – has three children from two marriages, and his lovely daughter’s two sons each have their own dad. The French word for a family like this is recomposée, which seems a bit more realistic than 'blended'.  I am the only non-Francophone in the mix and the conversation between the younger ones often goes too fast for me to take in everything, but I never feel excluded. They have been warm and welcoming of me from the start. We spend Saturday evening playing cards, making origami figures and watching movies projected onto a lovely old damask tablecloth stuck to the wall, but mid-viewing the duct tape gives way and the screen puddles gracefully to the floor.  No matter - we don't mind Nicholas Cage on a cinder-block background. 

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The second day dawns overcast but blooms into sunshine by late morning, perfect for another long beach walk.  When I first spotted this little fellow, he had his underwear on, but eventually ended up with nothing at all, much to everyone's amusement.   eventually ended up with nothing on at all, to his well-wrapped mother's amusement.  Other than us, he and his well-wrapped mother were the only French-speakers we heard in two days in Oostduinkerke. 

Had to take a spin on a cuistax (from cuisse meaning ‘thigh’ and tax for ‘taxi’) along the esplanade. Every imaginable kind of these wheeled vehicles is available for rent, and I try out a low-slung recumbent tricycle that steers by body lean. After about thirty yards my legs are in agony, but it's more fun than a step machine.     

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I’m dying to try out the bungy swing/jump with my FB’s daughter, but we’re turned down for being too grown-up! Very disappointing – just when I had worked up enough nerve to make a fool of myself.  We finish off the day with a fine meal – huge bowls full of steaming, garlicky mussels for the initiated and an excellent steak for me.

Next morning we head back to Brussels, with a stop along the way in Ghent, where the War of 1812 between Britain and the United States was put to an official end. The first mechanical weaving machine was also built here, and as a result Ghent became an important centre for the wool industry.

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A turbulent history saw the city traded back and forth between the Romans and the Franks as well as the Spanish, French and Austrians but these days it is resolutely Flemish. Were it not for the electric tram and the street signs, one could well imagine being transported back into the Middle Ages. IMG_5387

I also noticed, not for the first time, how well put-together people generally are. Women do not wear running shoes with ill-fitting jeans. Or ski jackets. Or, god forbid, sweats.

Dinner on our last night is put on by my FB's son-in-law, whose skills in the kitchen are second to none.  Here is Mario's ‘Roulade Paupiettes de Volaille’  - too good not to share.

Ingredients:

Boneless, skinless chicken breasts.

Cream cheese, about 1 ½ Tbsp per chicken breast. (If you can get French cheese, so much the better, otherwise Philadelphia will do.)

Sun-dried tomatoes, finely chopped (1 per chicken breast)

Shichimi Togarashi (Japanese seasoning)

Orange zest (optional but adds that little je ne sais quoi that distinguishes a chef from a mere cook)

Directions:

Place wax paper over opened chicken breasts and flatten with a meat mallet.

Mix cream cheese with tomatoes and a feeling of Shichimi Togarashi. (A feeling – pronounced with a French accent – is Mario’s equivalent of ‘a bit more than a pinch’)

Spread cream cheese mixture on one half of chicken breast.

Roll breast, securing with toothpick.

Brush lightly with cooking oil.

Finish with a sprinkle of orange zest over breasts.

Bake at 400F (200C) for about 20 minutes or until cooked through.

Serve with oven-roasted potato slices or risotto. Or whatever you like – it’s absolutely delicious no matter what you eat with it. I have no pictures of it, but your imagination can manage something, I’m sure.

I'll leave you with a few more Belgian specialities, although my tastes run simpler than these extravagant confections.  They're a bit like baked-good version of George Clooney - awfully nice to look at, but out of my league.  

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Friday, 24 September 2010

Greece Part III. In which I give up swimming upstream.

Posted on 14:55 by Unknown

google map Southerm Greece

I suspect I’m not the only one here who resists going along with the herd.  Telling me ‘but that’s the way we do things here’ sets off an  instantaneous, knee-jerk reaction that probably has its roots somewhere in a childhood where my only siblings were (considerably) older brothers.  There’s only so much direction you’ll put up with before the Nope reflex becomes part of your social behaviour.  

But I’m Canadian, and that makes me, paradoxically, a follower of official rules.  I believe that most laws have a basis in reason, and that they should be obeyed. Plus I’m afraid of being found out, which is why I’ll wait for the red light to change even if it’s 3AM and every other driver is in bed asleep.   

So we’re on dry land, having finished the sailing part of our holiday and on the road headed for the Peloponnese and the first of three destinations.  Having previously agreed to a policy of shared responsibility in most areas, MFB and I take turns behind the wheel, and it’s my turn first.  Right off the bat, we have a problem.

The vast majority of Greek highways consist of two lanes, with a paved shoulder on each side. The speed limits vary depending on how curvy the curves are, and I adhere to them religiously.  I’m not always so respectful on home ground, I admit, but in unfamiliar territory I’m prepared to believe they’re there for good reason.  And I have been taught, and agree, that the road shoulders are off-limits, unless for emergencies such as blown tires, vomiting children, or an urgent need to pee.   

But the Greeks view things differently.  They’re not the only ones to consider the shoulder as an extra driving lane, but they are my introduction to this unnerving practice.  So there’s a car on the shoulder, doing slightly under the speed limit.  Do I pass?  If I do, do I just stay in my own lane or do I pretend that this is a regulation pass, and move into the oncoming lane?  What if there’s somebody coming the other way, and I start to overtake Slowpoke in my own lane only to see an obstacle on the shoulder ahead?

So I stick to my Canadian rules of the road.  I might be in Greece, but I don’t think it’s safe to pass somebody on the shoulder, nor am I going to move over for the Mercedes SUV riding my tail.  (Digression:  According to reliable sources, Greece is having an economic meltdown.  In that case, why are there more luxury cars per linear kilometre than in France?)

So, pass me already! It’s not like I’m just poking along, but after a few kilometres of determined passive-aggression, I have gained a following.   It’s not pretty.  I can only withstand so much of horn-blaring-arm-waving pressure until my defiance deflates.  I move marginally to the right and straddle the yellow line for a bit, but as concessions go, it is ineffective.  Finally I cave totally and move right onto the shoulder, only to find that it runs out 100 feet later, replaced by a bridge abutment.  IMG_4542

After a while I get used to it, and decide that maybe the Greeks are resourceful, not irresponsible.  Just because there isn’t a passing lane doesn’t mean you can’t make one up, right? There are a couple of breathless moments when somebody coming the other way doesn’t play the game and forces the overtaking car over the centre line.  We now understand why there’s a roadside shrine every couple of miles. 

We have a map of Greece printed in France, which gives French versions of Greek place names.  They do not correspond to the English names that are occasionally shown on the road signs, so this mean we have to decipher the Cyrillic-Greek names and match them up with what’s on the signs—at 80 miles an hour.  I am probably better at calculus. 

  

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This gorgeous bridge crosses the Ionian Sea from the mainland to the Peloponnese peninsula at the port city of Patra.  The one-way toll is about 11USD, cash only.  I have fully embraced the concept of the cashless society, but that won’t take you far in Greece. Credit cards are unwelcome, not because the Greeks shun indebtedness, but because cash is easier to hide from the taxman.  In response to the economic crisis, an army of tax inspectors has fanned out across the country in an attempt to curtail the black market economy, and anyone caught trading services or goods for cash without a receipt is slapped with a 1700 Euro fine (about $2500US).  But suspicion of corruption runs high, and many Greeks remain convinced that tax revenue goes straight into the pockets of government officials.   

A compromise is struck between MFB and me about the route to take across the Peloponnese mountains from Patra to Nafplion, just south of the ancient ruins of Mycenae.  He wanted 100% scenic (read ‘non-stop hairpin turns), but settles for half-highway, half-scenic. Even then it takes about nine hours to do 250 miles, but the reward looks like this:IMG_4234

 

    

 IMG_4241 Me:‘Why can’t you smile??’ Her: ‘Why do you have to have a picture of EVERYthing?’

 

 

 

 

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Nafplion (Napflion?  P before f or the other way around?  Damned if I can remember.) is a pretty coastal town about 55 miles south-east of Athens.  Our room at the pension opens directly onto a narrow street in the old town, and the place felt like a movie set. 

 

  I’m thinking I should IMG_4268swap my house for this one, which overlooks the port and its ancient fortress.   IMG_4272

 

 

 

 

 

We all wish we could stay longer here, but next morning we’re off to …  

 

…the dry, rocky landscape of Mycanae, from where—despite its geographical isolation—a great civilization ruled and dominated ancient Greece.  Agamemnon returned here, fresh from his victory over Troy, only to be murdered by his wife and her lover.  Mycanae dates from the second millennium BC and was destroyed by the Argos in 463 BC – it is a site so ancient that it was already a tourist attraction during the Roman age!

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The ‘Lion’s Gate’ (middle photo) is the oldest known monument in existence, and at right is a Bronze Age example of a secant ogive, the single keystone at the apex of an arch, an architectural construct commonly seen in Gothic churches.   I marvel at the brilliance of ancient engineering, but the Corinth Canal fair took my breath away. 

A joint project of the Hungarian and Greek governments, it cut through the isthmus between the Peloponnese and central Greece, taking 13 years to build.  If your ship is narrow enough, it shortens the journey from the Ionian Sea to the Aegean by 125 nautical miles.      IMG_4337    

 IMG_4347

 

 

 

 

 

Up next is Delphi, of Oracle fame, and a major site of worship to the  god Apollo.  In 586 BC the first Pythian games, precursors to the modern Olympics, were held here. 

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And if ever you thought you were the centre of the universe, you were wrong.  It’s always been Delphi, where the beauteous omphalos,(navel) of the earth still remains to prove it.   

The paving stones on the pathways around the ruins are shiny-slippery from thousands of years of being walked on.  I’ve decided that my travel wish list should include all UNESCO World Heritage sites.  Delphi is the fourth I can cross off my list.     

IMG_4476 

 

 

 

IMG_4401Apollo’s temple.  IMG_4456

 

 

Driving from Delphi to Itea, where we spend the second night, we are agog at the immensity of this olive tree orchard.  Nothing else grows in the valley, save the occasional errant cedar. 

IMG_4389 

IMG_4361They taste the same no matter what the alphabet

 

 

 

Another UNESCO world heritage site, Meteora, with its sandstone formations rising spectacularly from the Plain of Thessaly….   IMG_4500

 

 

 

 

  

…on top of which are Eastern Orthodox monasteries, the first of which was built by hermit monks in the 14th century, seeking refuge from an expanding Turkish invasion.    IMG_4581   

 

 

 

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And cats! They are everywhere—on the streets, in restaurants, shops, parks.  The country is overrun with felines.  Some are abandoned, most are feral, and all are thin.  And fecund.  I wanted to adopt them all. 

    IMG_4571 IMG_4557

 

 

 

 

 

We leave the next day for Egouminitsa to catch the ferry across to Italy.   We get there by mid-afternoon and after check-in, there are still 8 hours to kill.  Our friend Jos told us about a hotel-spa at Sivota, 20 kilometres away, where we can lounge around the pool for a minimal fee, so we head in that direction.  I’ve had my fill of winding Greek roads but the resort is worth the detour.  It’s very upscale, and there I am in the same shorts I’ve worn for the past three days and my hair is clamped to my skull with sweat.  It’s hard, but  I make myself not care. 

IMG_4656

 

We swim and read, and drink iced coffee.  There is supposed to be a 10 Euro fee for pool privileges but nobody asks us for it.  After a light dinner in the poolside restaurant and a spectacular sunset, we’re on our way back to the port.   

 

 

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We leave Anne to sit in the car and wander along the quayside, waiting for the ferry.  There’s no security, no uniforms.  People and kids pass the time watching ships disgorge their cargo, and small groups of young men—boys, really—emerge from the shadows at the edge of the quay, moving furtively, their faces wary.  I’ve seen the reports on the evening news about Afghan boys, some as young as twelve, who make their way through Iraq and Iraq and  across Europe to Calais, where they spend months in miserable conditions waiting for a chance to get to England.  It hits home that this is real life in front of us, not just an item on the news.  What wouldn’t they give for my ease of movement, my right to live in Europe, my security?  The ticket in my pocket feels very heavy with symbolism.

A thin, handsome dog pads purposefully between the waiting cars, ignoring calls from sympathetic dog-lovers.  He’s looking for food, and isn’t interested in anybody’s transient affection.  Out of the blackness a behemoth looms, blazing with light.   It’s our ferry, just arrived from Brindisi.  Loading is faster than on the journey over; and in under an hour we’re on board.

As I leave the car deck, I turn back to make sure the car is locked, and see the dog.  He must have come up the ramp unnoticed, and now he’s on his way to Italy.  He flops down underneath a camper van and rests his nose on his paws.  I want to think that he’s headed back home, that he hops the ferry the way some dogs prowl the streets.  I hope so. 

Kalinikta, puppy. 

Efharisto, Greece.    

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